Danube Supermarket

If you’re heading out on a road trip, stop here first. It has a brilliant bakery, excellent cheeses, hummus, fruit and everything else you might have forgotten. We loaded the car before driving to Taif and it made the journey so much more enjoyable. Don’t leave without trying the Egyptian flatbread.

Reyhana

Saudi sits alongside some of the Middle East’s great food cultures, and Reyhana is a lovely reminder of that. Order the Fesenjan, the Baghali Polo and finish with Bastani Sonati. It is the sort of meal you will remember long after you have left Jeddah.

Al Balad

Don’t rush it. Wander through the old streets, explore Artist Square and seek out the little café overlooking the square (confirm name). If your guide suggests an early visit to the fish market, say yes. It is noisy, chaotic, intense and captures Jeddah’s connection with the Red Sea better than anywhere else.

Find a table inside or outside at the cafe overlooking Artist Square, order a Saudi coffee and watch the square come to life. It’s a lovely place to pause before wandering through Al Balad again. Find a table inside or outside at the café overlooking Artist Square, order a Saudi coffee and watch the square come to life. It is a lovely place to pause before wandering through Al Balad again.

Ask your guide where local families go for seafood in Al Balad. There is a long-established restaurant serving grilled local fish, prawns and traditional Saudi rice (confirm name). It’s exactly the sort of place you would never find on your own.

Before leaving Jeddah, pick up fresh bread, local cheeses, hummus and something sweet for the journey. If you are travelling onwards by road, you will be very glad you did.

One thing I learnt very quickly is that last minute doesn’t really work in Saudi. The best guides, restaurants and experiences are usually arranged in advance, so a little planning goes a long way.